News From Merida and the Yucatan

December in Merida 2009

el Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe
Throughout November, while attention is on the State Fair at X'matkuil, the people of Merida are getting ready for a month that has not one, but two of the most important religious celebrations in all of Mexico. December 12 is el Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, often thought of as either one or a combination of the Mother of Christ and Tonantzin, the Native American Earth Mother, especially since she is said to have asked for her church to be built on the place where Tonantzin was worshiped. No matter what version you believe or don't believe, 25 popes have honored la Virgen and Pope John Paul II declared Dec. 12 as a Liturgical Holy Day for the North American Continent. He placed the cause of life and the lives of innocent children under la Virgen's care. He visited her shrine four times and all of the people of Mexico loved him because he loved her.

As December 12 draws near, groups of either bicyclers or runners will be traveling all over Mexico, and some will begin to arrive in Merida. They are only part of the millions of Mexicans who make a pilgrimage to honor la Virgen de Guadalupe because of a promise they made to her at some point during the year. For those who are already here, altars are set up in homes and even in many businesses, each decorated with Christmas lights around a statue of la Virgen.

Novenas (Catholic rituals) are held in private homes, along with neighborhood fiestas. By daybreak on December 10, the music and dancing will begin to flow out of the homes and toward the Church of San Cristobal and other local churches. By December 12, el Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe becomes a fiesta that grips the entire population in a wave of loving smiles and joyous music, dancing, singing and, as always in Yucatan, great food and excellent friends.

Christmas in Merida
No sooner does one holiday end than another begins. This time, it is Christmas! Paseo Montejo and the Plaza Grande become a Christmas wonderland. In recent years, Merida's malls have begun to get in on this act themselves. This means that there are beautiful scenes of Christmas, from religious scenes to Santa scenes, available for all to enjoy! Paseo Montejo has a new creche (Nativity Scene) at the remate (the southern end) in the glorieta (traffic circle) and a huge Christmas tree in the park itself. In the creche you'll notice there is no Baby Jesus until Christmas Eve. Throughout the City of Merida, there will be signs of Christmas at individual homes as well. These include everything from simple Christmas lights on the homes of the poor to elaborate lawn decorations, complete with sound, at the homes of Merida's wealthier citizens.

Beginning on December 16, there will be 9 days of Posadas, which are processions in which children portray Mary and Joseph as they search for an inn. These are elaborate affairs, complete with burro, angels, shepherds, and the Three Kings. When the young Mary and Joseph finally reach the designated house, admittance is granted and a huge party ensues. During this time, there are also Pastorelas, which are shepherds' plays that depict the angel announcing the birth of Jesus and the shepherds' trials and tribulations on their journey to find their baby king. These include angels, the Magi, and a variety of animals. On Christmas Eve, families and friends get together for good food, good company and exchanging gifts.

December 28th is the Day of the Holy Innocents (Santos Inocentes), which commemorates King Herod's order to slaughter all male infants in his kingdom, in an effort to kill the Christ Child. Since King Herod failed in his quest, this day is celebrated much like an April Fool's Day.

Three Kings Day
December festivities continue through New Year's Eve and on to January 6th, which is Epiphany in other places, but is Día de Los Reyes (Three Kings Day) in Mexico. Since the 3 Kings brought presents to the Baby Jesus, this is the day that children in Mexico wake up to find their gifts from the Wise Men. This is the day that Rosca de Reyes (King Cakes) are eaten. Whoever gets the hidden Baby Jesus must give another party on or before Candlemas (the Feast of the Purification of Mary and the Presentation of Christ at the Church), which is Feb. 2.

Festivals and Fiestas
Here is the list of festivals and fiestas that begin in mid-December: